Trying to stay sober in Russia

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21 Prime Steakhouse and Bar on Novy Arbat in Moscow

By Jessica Golloher

At a popular Italian restaurant near Pushkin Square in Moscow, men and women talk business over margarita pizzas, fettuccine and minestrone soup. It could be a typical business lunch in most any city, except for the beverage that sits chilled on most tables – a bottle of vodka.

Hard alcohol at lunch is de rigueur in Russia, according to Oxana Egorova, a businesswoman. She said vodka gets your blood flowing better.

Popular bar minutes from the Kremlin, All Time Bar. (photo: Jessica Golloher)

In fact, the country is one of the world’s largest consumers of alcohol per capita. The average Russian drinks more than twice the maximum amount considered healthy by the World Health Organization. So why do Russians drink so much? Experts say it’s a number of factors, including the lack of adequate social services, employment opportunities and depression, among other things. Oxana Egorova said life is difficult in Russia. “That’s why they’re drinking. It’s definitely seen everywhere, everyday.”

And Russians do drink – in public – at any time of the day. Men and women, young and old, buy tiny bottles of hard alcohol at kiosks on their way to work; women push baby carriages with one hand while holding a liter can of beer in the other, and teenagers sit in parks during the middle of the day, drinking vodka straight out of the bottle. It’s not just that people are drinking all the time, everywhere; they want you to drink too, said Becca Dalton, an American expat who teaches English.

“I think it’s pretty difficult not to drink in Russia,” Dalton said. “The first year I was here I had a real problem with it because everyone was offering me alcohol everywhere we went. If you refused, everyone looked at you strangely. I worked at school and they would pull me out of class to go and drink champagne and vodka, and then we’d go back and teach again.”

Dalton said that sometimes it’s just easier to drink up rather than face dirty looks. That’s exactly what American attorney John Sherry says he got when he tried to politely – repeatedly — refuse shots of vodka, glasses of champagne and snifters of cognac during the workday. Sherry said Russians don’t get the American motto, “Just say no.”

“They won’t understand if they’re pouring out shot glasses and they pass you one and you say no thanks, not today,” Sherry said. “Any of the sort of finesse of how you’d say it in the United States doesn’t work here at all.”

Moscow house party on Tverskaya (photo: Jessica Golloher)

If you surrounded yourself with people who don’t drink, you’d be alone most of your time in Moscow, said Pastor Robert Broncoma, who often works at the St. Andrew’s Anglican Church here in Moscow, where Alcoholics Anonymous gathers daily. When asked what it is about Russia that makes it so hard to say nyet, Broncoma responded that this is a place where it’s so easy to lose one’s inhibitions. For a westerner, he said, there are so many differences here that it’s hard to know where the line is.

“I’ve never lived in a place where there’s no line between what’s right and what’s wrong,” Broncoma said. “There’s no conscience telling you you should or shouldn’t do this, where in other places where I lived there’s more of a cultural norm for what’s right and what’s wrong; there’s more of a subconscious feel of how far you can go and not go.”

Broncoma added that he’s constantly being called on to counsel expats who’ve lost complete control. People who say that they were just social drinkers back in the US are downing five vodka tonics a night, then going home to have a couple more. Why? Because they say it’s expected and accepted. But many are trying to break the habit. Moscow’s chapter of AA is one of the biggest in the world. There are daily meetings for alcoholics and weekly get-togethers for friends and family members.

But John Sherry said staying sober involved more than AA for him. He said he couldn’t just refuse alcohol anymore. He had to actually tell Russians about his very personal struggle so they would leave him alone when it came time for a toast.

“You get to the point where you own up to everyone that I quit drinking, I have a drinking problem. That they understand because that is one thing that people in Russia are familiar with,” Sherry said.

Russian President Dmitry Medvedev has acknowledged that the problem goes well beyond expats. He has called Russia’s rampant alcoholism a “national disaster,” and kicked off a program to combat drinking, including a comprehensive media campaign and strict penalties for selling to minors. The president said he hopes his reforms will slash the nation’s per capita alcohol consumption by 25 percent within the next year.

Russian politicians seem to be on board. For the first time, beer is officially going to be classified as an alcoholic drink rather than as a food.

Ironically, Soviet Leader Mikhail Gorbachev also tried to rein in Russia’s drinking during the mid-1980s with his own fight against alcohol. His campaign used some of the same proposed steps as Medvedev’s, but also included closing many of the country’s vodka distilleries, eradicating vineyards in Moldova and Armenia, and banning the sale of alcohol in restaurants before 2 pm, among other things.

Analysts say the anti-drinking campaign was a partial success. It did ultimately cut alcohol-related deaths but it also caused a dramatic surge in moonshining.

Discussion

16 comments for “Trying to stay sober in Russia”

  • Anonymous
  • Anonymous

    “Hard alcohol at lunch is de rigueur in Russia”?
    Strange, I just spent 5 years in Moscow (11 in Russia in total), eating lunch nearly every day in cafes in that same region, and I don’t recall ever seeing anyone drinking vodka at lunch. Certainly none of my colleagues ever did. Mind you, a business lunch with vendors or customers would be a different affair entirely, especially if foreigners are present, but then it’s a matter of building relationships. Many if not most Russians have lunch in a cafeteria, where hard alcohol would be quite unusual. This is not to say that alcohol consumption is not high, or a huge problem: Russians are quite aware that the average male life expectancy of 50-something is largely a result of alcohol. But “de rigeur” is a bit of an exaggeration.

    Indeed, prohibition does not work: when I was in grad school in Leningrad in 1989, sugar was rationed; the moonshiners were using it all up. Black markets also create problems with quality control: bad vodka can kill you, as it did the husband of the woman across the hall from me in the dormitory. “Those who fail to learn history are doomed to repeat it”…

  • Anonymous

    “Hard alcohol at lunch is de rigueur in Russia”?
    Strange, I just spent 5 years in Moscow (11 in Russia in total), eating lunch nearly every day in cafes in that same region, and I don’t recall ever seeing anyone drinking vodka at lunch. Certainly none of my colleagues ever did. Mind you, a business lunch with vendors or customers would be a different affair entirely, especially if foreigners are present, but then it’s a matter of building relationships. Many if not most Russians have lunch in a cafeteria, where hard alcohol would be quite unusual. This is not to say that alcohol consumption is not high, or a huge problem: Russians are quite aware that the average male life expectancy of 50-something is largely a result of alcohol. But “de rigeur” is a bit of an exaggeration.

    Indeed, prohibition does not work: when I was in grad school in Leningrad in 1989, sugar was rationed; the moonshiners were using it all up. Black markets also create problems with quality control: bad vodka can kill you, as it did the husband of the woman across the hall from me in the dormitory. “Those who fail to learn history are doomed to repeat it”…

  • Anonymous

    I counted at least three instances in Jessica Golloher’s commentary in which her misuse of emphasis and/or sentence structure completely changed the meaning of her statements. If English is not her first language – I appologize, but…

    Here is one example. At one point, she said something like “The social environment in Russia makes it easy for foreigners to lose complete control.” What she meant to say was that the environment causes people to “completely lose control.” See the difference?

  • Anonymous

    I counted at least three instances in Jessica Golloher’s commentary in which her misuse of emphasis and/or sentence structure completely changed the meaning of her statements. If English is not her first language – I appologize, but…

    Here is one example. At one point, she said something like “The social environment in Russia makes it easy for foreigners to lose complete control.” What she meant to say was that the environment causes people to “completely lose control.” See the difference?

  • Anonymous

    I counted at least three instances in Jessica Golloher’s commentary in which her misuse of emphasis and/or sentence structure completely changed the meaning of her statements. If English is not her first language – I appologize, but…

    Here is one example. At one point, she said something like “The social environment in Russia makes it easy for foreigners to lose complete control.” What she meant to say was that the environment causes people to “completely lose control.” See the difference?

  • http://profiles.google.com/benjaminloring Benjamin Loring

    I agree with simplulo. This report was disappointingly lazy and narrow-minded. Golloher purports to be investigating Russian alcohol use, but aside from a few brief comments from an English-speaking businesswoman in a posh pizzaria, there are no Russian voices in the piece. Most of the piece consists of Golloher’s interviews with other Anglophone ex-pats, at least one of whom is a recovering alcoholic. These expats (and Golloher herself, apparently) have an exaggerated, skewed view of Russian drinking culture, one with which most Russians would disagree. Where are the testimonies of Russians who do not drink? (yes, contrary to the impression Golloher gives, they exist and there are actually quite a number of them). Where are the statistics which suggest that hard drinking has been on the decline in Russian for the last decade? Where are the voices of medical professionals or even just an ordinary Russian who cannot afford to blow wads of cash in upscale establishments in central Moscow? Speaking of central Moscow, Golloher never strays more than a mile from the Kremlin–the pizzeria, the bar, the Anglican church, and the house party are both within about a ten-fifteen minute walk from its walls. To improve this piece , Golloher might have 1) talked to Russians outside the center of Moscow, 2) talked to a professional who studies the problem, and 3) avoided recycling tired, outdated Western stereotypes of drunken, savage, inconsiderate Russians.

    • Anonymous

      you’re obviously Russian (or have a soft spot for Russia as do I) and was offended right? well don’t be. It was just a six minute report on what everybody will agree is a more complicated problem that can be further investigated if one feels inclined to do so. I don’t think anyone who heard that report thinks they have learned all they need to know about the topic. Also you have to consider the audience it was intended for which explains the “ex-pats” who never claimed to be experts just alive and cable of thought and speech. The report never claimed ALL Russians drank, but it did provide statistics form Russia which I believe are more illuminating than who was or wasn’t interviewed.

      • http://profiles.google.com/benjaminloring Benjamin Loring

        I am not Russian (as my first and last name should suggest). I am just turned off by lazy, uniformed reporting. I’m not saying that she shouldn’t talk to ex-pats, just that there should be more authoritative Russian voices in a story about Russian drinking habits (the tipsy businesswoman who was briefly interviewed is not typical, I can assure you).

        The paltry statistics that she provided are either old (from the Soviet era) or very general, and they fail to show any trends in drinking over the last several years (the real story is how alcoholism rates have been declining, something that many other Western journalists have already reported). Would it have been too much to ask that the reporter talk to a medical professional or two? Instead she drops by a couple of bars in central Moscow and interviews a few fellow North American acquaintances. I would expect a bit more effort from a paid reporter.

        • Anonymous

          you’re obviously not Russian, it was just the first thought I had and I stuck with it even after I noticed your name, thinking it would be comical (obviously not). I completely agree with you, I guess it boils down to lowering your expectation for a six minute snippet of a issue with such complexity. For someone like myself, who as not studied the issue in depth, I would say the report would be a good starting point (not because of how informative it was but rather because at the very least it was interesting to a Westerner). For someone like you who is more familiar with the subject matter; I can see how you would be irritated by the report. One last thing. About the statistics, she seem to imply that the president’s declaration that alcoholism was a national disaster were based on the statistics she quoted. I could be mistaking (I didn’t re-listen to the report) or it could be just another evidence of poor journalism on her part. Thank you for responding to me, I was pleasantly surprised.

      • http://profiles.google.com/benjaminloring Benjamin Loring

        I am not Russian (as my first and last name should suggest). I am just turned off by lazy, uniformed reporting. I’m not saying that she shouldn’t talk to ex-pats, just that there should be more authoritative Russian voices in a story about Russian drinking habits (the tipsy businesswoman who was briefly interviewed is not typical, I can assure you).

        The paltry statistics that she provided are either old (from the Soviet era) or very general, and they fail to show any trends in drinking over the last several years (the real story is how alcoholism rates have been declining, something that many other Western journalists have already reported). Would it have been too much to ask that the reporter talk to a medical professional or two? Instead she drops by a couple of bars in central Moscow and interviews a few fellow North American acquaintances. I would expect a bit more effort from a paid reporter.

    • Anonymous

      you’re obviously Russian (or have a soft spot for Russia as do I) and was offended right? well don’t be. It was just a six minute report on what everybody will agree is a more complicated problem that can be further investigated if one feels inclined to do so. I don’t think anyone who heard that report thinks they have learned all they need to know about the topic. Also you have to consider the audience it was intended for which explains the “ex-pats” who never claimed to be experts just alive and cable of thought and speech. The report never claimed ALL Russians drank, but it did provide statistics form Russia which I believe are more illuminating than who was or wasn’t interviewed.

  • Anonymous

    It was a bad idea to choose this subject, and a bad way to do research and a report. I’m familiar with the subject. It’s true that in Russia and former Soviet countries there is a historically-rooted greater propensity for drinking, but this report takes it overboard with so much generalization and extreme emphasis that it comes across more as anti-Russian propaganda. It appears that the reporter started with an opinionated conclusion, a preconception, and then went about the research cherry-picking the information to maximize support for this conclusion. She (or the research staff) has not done the work to really understand the subject, and the report propagates disinformation. However, my most important point is that it is painfully similar to some past anti-America propaganda in the state-controlled news in Russia. This was not universal, but was common. (Now Medvedev is more pro-West, and Putin is also following that trend. In general Russians are not anti-American). My biggest problem with your story is that it’s likely to damage the relationship, and, if there will be many reports like this one, they could escalate an acrimonious “propaganda war”. Please be careful about over-generalization, and practice intellectual honesty when characterizing any nation or group of people.

  • Anonymous

    I actually think this report was very accurate. I spent a year living in Moscow as an expat. I considered myself a moderate drinker before I went to Russia; there, I was drinking two-three times as much as I had in the U.S. Partly because drinking in Russia is a cultural pastime, much like “gulat”ing–Russians love to toast to everything and anything, and to not partake is seen as offensive. And partly because, as the report mentions, beer isn’t considered alcohol and is the equivalent of cola in American restaurants. In fact, at many places, beer is cheaper than water. The reporter was not trying to portray Russia as a nation of alcoholics. The point of the piece was that Russians view alcohol consumption, both qualitatively and quantitatively, very differently from Americans or other Westerners.

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