• Photo gallery: Moscow’s dilapidated Narkomfin building
• The BBC’s James Rodgers visited Narkomfin in 2008

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MARCO WERMAN:  Russia has seen a dramatic serge in new construction in recent years, especially in cities like Moscow.  But Jessica Golloher reports that some Muscovites worry that historically significant buildings are being sacrificed in the name of progress.

JESSICA GOLLOHER:  It’s 10 degrees below zero as Kevin O’Flynn walks through the snow towards a run-down apartment building in the center of Moscow.  It looks like it’s been through a war.  Windows are broken.  Wires are hanging from the roof and there’s an enormous piece of concrete five floors up ready to tumble to the ground.  O’Flynn is with the Moscow Architecture Preservation Society.  He says this building, known as Narcomfin, was built in the 1920′s and it was an avant-garde masterpiece.

KEVIN O’FLYNN:  Architects come here especially just to see this building because it was a revolution in its time.  This was a building which was supposed to help people live together as a Socialist living.  The ideas that are seen inside the building influenced architects throughout the world.

GOLLOHER: But now the building is in danger of falling apart or being demolished though there have been international calls to save it.  But Russian officials haven’t responded and they didn’t return repeated calls for a comment about what it plans to do with the building.  And Narcomfin is not the only historical building in Moscow that’s in danger.  According to a recent report from the Preservation Society, some of Moscow’s most important cultural buildings are falling prey to a demolition derby.  Kevin O’Flynn says money has a lot to do with that.  He says many of these buildings occupy prime real estate and city officials are well aware of that.

O’FLYNN: I think they have been caught up in the huge real estate business.  There’s chances here to make billions.

GOLLOHER: Just a few miles from the Narcomfin Building, Lydia Shestakova works at a museum in the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Our Savior in Kadash.  She says the Cathedral’s location, in the center of Moscow, has made it vulnerable to development even though the area is a legally protected site. Shestakova says some of the buildings surrounding the cathedral are being cleared away for a new office complex.  Those buildings are supposed to be off limits to development.  That’s apparently news to E.S. Sinitzin.  He directs the construction company working on the compound.  He says he’s been given the go-ahead by the Moscow city government.  Anna Bronovitskaya of the Architecture Preservation Society says it’s not surprising.  She says that historic protection laws exist on paper but they’re often not enforced here.  But, even when the government does take steps to preserve historic property, Anna Bronovitskaya says it doesn’t do it right.  She gives the example of the renovation of the Bolshoi Theater.  That’s been underway for years she says, some of it nearly destroyed the foundation.  Still, even if the government is lagging on preservation some observers say the public is becoming more aware of what’s being lost.  David Sarkisiyan is head of Moscow’s Architecture Museum.  He says the museum mounted an exhibit last fall after three historical buildings were torn down in Moscow in one year.  Sarkisiyan says the exhibit consisted of three graves with photos of the old buildings along with their names, dates of birth and death.  He says visitors would stop, cry and have a drink at the installation as if they were mourning someone at a gravesite.  For The World, I’m Jessica Golloher in Moscow.

Copyright ©2009 PRI’s THE WORLD. All rights reserved. No quotes from the materials contained herein may be used in any media without attribution to PRI’s THE WORLD. This transcript may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior written permission. For further information, please email The World’s Permissions Coordinator at theworld@pri.org.

Marco Werman’s special Global Hit podcast: Fela Kuti (8 minutes):

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FELA! On Broadway

Lauren De Veux, Sahr Ngaujah and Hettie Vyrine Barnhill photo: ©Monique Carboni

FELA! The Man Behind the Music

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FELA! On Broadway

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This text below is a phonetic transcript of a radio story broadcast by PRI’s THE WORLD. It has been created on deadline by a contractor for PRI. The transcript is included here to facilitate internet searches for audio content. Please report any transcribing errors to theworld@pri.org. This transcript may not be in its final form, and it may be updated. Please be aware that the authoritative record of material distributed by PRI’s THE WORLD is the program audio.

MARCO WERMAN:  I’m Marco Werman, this is the World.  Broadways’ musical subjects have been as varied as Thomas Jefferson, Jesus Christ and P.T. Barnum and so why not a musical about Nigerian afro beat pioneer Fela Anikulapo Kuti?  Well, for starters, Fela is nowhere near as well known as those other guys.  But the review for Fela the Musical have been enthusiastic and shows are selling out so apparently those in the know and those not want a two and a half hour afrobeat and history experience.  The idea of the show is simple.  The audience is transported back to an evening in the mid-seventies at Fela’s nightclub, the Shrine, in Lagos.  It’s uncanny how much this recreates the actual fever at the Shrine and the large weight of that illusion is carried on the shoulder of Sahr Ngaujah.  He’s the actor you’re hearing there who primary takes on the role of Fela Kuti.  Sahr Ngaujah joins us from the studios of the Argot Network in New York.  Thanks for being here.

SAHR NGAUJAH:  Yeah, my pleasure.

WERMAN:  Now, you were born in the United States to an American mother and a Sierra Leonian dad.  When did you first become aware of Fela?

NGAUJAH:  I was around six or seven years old, actually.  My father was a DJ in Atlanta at the time and he was playing house parties, club parties, but African parties all over the city.  For Nigerians, Guynan, Sierra Leoneans, Ethiopians, you name it and he made it a particular point to really explain to me like this guy, he’s a very important composer.  At the time we really just talked about the music, but there was one day ITT was on, you know, International Thief-Thief and then explained to me how Fela kind of brought these two meanings together and layered the meanings.  I was probably just seven years old and it really just blew me away.  It had a really big impression on me.

WERMAN:  What did you think of initially playing the title role in a Broadway, well at the time and off-Broadway, musical about Fela.  I mean he’s not really Broadway material.

NGAUJAH:  Yeah, I was really excited, man.  When they called me and they said hey, Bill wants you to read some things for him.

WERMAN:  Bill T. Jones?

NGAUJAH:  At the time it was impossible, yeah, Bill T. Jones.  Of course I was really excited because Fela is such an icon.  I’ve been aware of his music all my life, but of course there’s so many details to his life that I had no clue about.  So then I began to start doing a deeper research.  The more I looked, the more excited I became.

WERMAN:  Were you just like watching every documentary made about Fela Kuti and just kind of consuming everything about him?

NGAUJAH:  Yeah, yeah.  I just ate as much of Fela Kuti as I could.

WERMAN:  How do you do Fela?  What is your main motivator?  Before you hit the stage, where do you go, what do you do to be him?

NGAUJAH:  Oh well, quite practically, every night there’s a quiet space that I have to find before jumping in front of a few thousand people to shake out whatever Fela had going on in his day in their face.

WERMAN:  Well, let’s check out your and the band’s interpretation of the Fela’s classic, Zombie.  Sahr Ngaujah is singing the Fela classic, Zombie, in the Broadway show Fela.  Now Sahr, for you to play the role of a musical political activist isn’t a huge stretch.  I mean you wrote a theater piece called Conversations with Ice which deals with the global diamonds and Sierra Leone’s child soldiers and the connections to bling and the hip-hop world.  That sounds like a lot to bite off.

NGAUJAH:  Yeah, my family is from Sierra Leone and I grew up in hip-hop culture in the States, so to speak.  I mean, the genesis of that piece was born in 1999 when the rebels, RUF, stormed Freetown, the capital of Sierra Leone.  At the time I was living in Atlanta and I’ll never forget this one particular night, which was preceded by a week or weeks of phone calls from our family who were on the run, fleeing to Gheny, to refugee camps, fleeing into Freetown.  I spoke to my father on the phone and he told me the latest and I cut on the news.  So after I cut the television off, I cut on the radio and it so happened that two blocks from my house there was this diamond party happening.

WERMAN:  What’s a diamond party?

NGAUJAH:  I don’t know if they still go on.

WERMAN:  Kind of like a Tupperware party?

NGAUJAH:  Well I don’t know if it’s really – - it’s kind of like a Tupperware party, though, in a sense.  People are partying, but what the guy said on the interview was like, you know you got to be iced out to winter and there’s a free diamond give away at the end of the night.  And it was like, okay.  So you just had to be iced out to get into the party and at the end of the party they’re going to give away a free diamond.  Granted, this is like late 90′s, like ’99, the height of bling.  Of course there were a lot of diamonds coming out of Sierra Leone at the time as well.  It really just sent my mind spinning and I began to write a collection of short stories called Refracting, which eventually turned into this piece, Conversations with Ice, that I wrote and directed in Amsterdam.

WERMAN:  Sahr, Fela’s youngest son, Shayman Kuti has come to see the show.  Did he speak to you afterwards about what he saw in your playing his dad?  That must have been kind of weird and wonderful.

NGAUJAH:  We had a blast.  It was weird, man.  It was weird and wonderful, man.  All of those Kuti’s, they put such a huge smile on my face.  The funniest thing though is Shayman, we would go out, maybe to a club or something.  Maybe he offers to buy me a drink or I offer to buy him a drink and he says yeah okay, thanks dad.  He really made me laugh when he said that, but I guess at the end of the day for me, it just made me feel good that he was happy with the work.  And the same with Yenny and Kunlei who came out for opening night.

WERMAN:  Yeah, the other siblings.

NGAUJAH:  Yeah, it was really rich too, to spend time with all of those cats.

WERMAN:  A lot of people who adore Fela have gone to see the show, but there are many more people who don’t know Fela who have gone to see the Broadway musical.  What for you is the best thing about seeing these American audiences at this critically acclaimed show who are encountering Fela for the first time?

NGAUJAH:  The best thing about it, I feel like he represents courage and originality.  I feel it’s important right now in America because we, America has just come out of a heavy period where fear was projected in such a heavy way.  I think now is an important time for people to have any sort of image or figure to associate with that idea, especially if it’s one who is projecting that idea over a fresh beat.

WERMAN:  Sahr Ngaujah is cast in the role of Fela in the relatively new Broadway musical of the same name.  Really good to speak with you Sahr.  Thanks a lot.

NGAUJAH:  Hey cheers, man.  My pleasure.

WERMAN:  Music there from the current Broadway hit Fela.  And you can find out more about the continuing legacy of Fela Kuti on a new TV series that I’m hosting on PBS, Soundtracks, Music without Borders.  The first episode airs tonight.  Check your local listings.  There’s more information as well as audio and video from Soundtracks at the world dot org.  From the Nan and Bill Harris at WGBH, I’m Marco Werman.  Thank you for listening.

Copyright ©2009 PRI’s THE WORLD. All rights reserved. No quotes from the materials contained herein may be used in any media without attribution to PRI’s THE WORLD. This transcript may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior written permission. For further information, please email The World’s Permissions Coordinator at theworld@pri.org.

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MARCO WERMAN:  I’m Marco Werman and this is The World.  It’s been downhill for health care reform since September.  That’s when you may recall a Senator shouted you lie, after President Obama said that the proposed legislation would not cover illegal immigrants.  Actually the President was right about that.  But many countries provide health care for everyone, including undocumented immigrants.  An example is Spain.  But recently, two Spanish towns began to deny health benefits to illegal immigrants.  The World’s Gerry Hadden sent us this report from one of the towns, Vick.

GERRY HADDEN:   In a small square in his northeastern city, a 26-year-old man sits on a bench.  His name is Adolpho and he wears a white wool hat and a big glass earring in one ear.  Adolpho came to Spain from Bolivia as a tourist, but stayed illegally to work in construction.  He’s got the flu, he says, but he can’t go to the doctor, at least not here in Vick because he’s not registered as a resident in City Hall.

ADOLPHO:  [in Spanish through an interpreter]  I tried to register, he said, but they asked me for my Visa and my passport.  I told them that Spain doesn’t require Bolivians to get Visas but they just turned me away.

HADDEN: For weeks, the city of Vick has been denying undocumented immigrants access to doctors and schools.  City officials argue that such immigrants are either unemployed or working under the table.  That means they’re not paying taxes, says Vick’s Mayor, Josette Vida.

JOSETTE VIDA:  [through interpreter]  Vick is trying to get it’s registry of immigrants in order, he said.  The more organized we are, the better we can integrate foreigners in our city.  That’s why we decided to take the existing immigration law and apply it.

mgm:  Actually, Mayor Vida’s interpretation of that law is what has stirred a national controversy.  Human rights groups and politicians of all stripes have been speaking out against Vick’s action.  Celestine Corbacho is Spain’s Minister for Labor and Immigration.

CELESTINE CORBACHO:  [through interpreter] According to the law, he says, access to services are a right that come before whatever local norm a city might create.  Therefore Vick cannot deny health care and education to non-Spaniards without papers.

HADDEN: And Vick’s been feeling the pressure.  Late last week city officials backed down.  Immigrants like Adolpho, will once again be allowed to get government funded medical care like other people in Vick.  But the Spanish residents of Vick say the problem isn’t going away.  Business woman Manoli Morales says the city can’t afford to subsidize people who sneak into the country.

MANOLI MORALES:  [through interpreter]  She says they have a right to come to Spain if they have papers.  If they don’t have permission, we should boot them right out.  You understand?

HADDEN: Morales’ attitude reflects the ongoing frustration in many small Spanish towns.  Vick was virtually all Spaniards before Spain’s housing boom 10 years ago.  Today, immigrants make up 26% of the population.  That radical demographic shift, combined with the economic crisis has given rise to a radical Nationalist Party here.  The Platform for Catalonia won four City Council seats in recent elections on an anti-immigrant platform.  While immigrants’ rights groups have been condemning Vick as xenophobic, some mainstream politicians have come to its defense, at least partially.  The President of the Catalon region of Spain, socialist Jose Montilla, says Vick’s solution was wrong, but it’s problem is real.  The huge influx of undocumented immigrants has put strains on Social Services.  Montilla says denying it is like burying your head in the sand.  In a recent interview he lamented that it’s become to politically incorrect to acknowledge that while immigrants have helped Spain, sometimes they can also be a burden.  Other politicians are now calling for Spain’s immigration law to be overhauled to correct a key contradiction.  On the local level, towns are obligated to offer undocumented workers social services, while the federal government is obligated to deport them.  For the time being, one other Spanish town, Torrejon in Madrid, is still refusing undocumented workers benefits.  If it continues, the federal government has threatened to take town officials to Court.  For The World, I’m Gerry Hadden, Vick, Spain.

Copyright ©2009 PRI’s THE WORLD. All rights reserved. No quotes from the materials contained herein may be used in any media without attribution to PRI’s THE WORLD. This transcript may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior written permission. For further information, please email The World’s Permissions Coordinator at theworld@pri.org.

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This text below is a phonetic transcript of a radio story broadcast by PRI’s THE WORLD. It has been created on deadline by a contractor for PRI. The transcript is included here to facilitate internet searches for audio content. Please report any transcribing errors to theworld@pri.org. This transcript may not be in its final form, and it may be updated. Please be aware that the authoritative record of material distributed by PRI’s THE WORLD is the program audio.

MARCO WERMAN:  Today is the 251st birthday of Robert Burns, Scotland’s national poet.  In Scotland, and around the world, people are marking the occasion with a festive meal known as a Burns Supper.  It involves Haggis, a dish made from various sheep’s organs including the liver, lungs and heart.  Haggis may be a delicacy in Scotland, but it’s been illegal to import it into the U.S. since 1989.  It was banned due to fears that British meat products could cause Mad Cow Disease.  Now the U.S. government is thinking about lifting the ban.  So if you want to get an early start on your Burns Supper for next year, here’s some background from The World’s Carol Zall.

CAROL ZALL:  A Burns Supper is an evening of ritual and ceremony.

VALERIE GILLIES:  People are usually, the eye is on the Haggis because the Haggis has been piped in.

ZALL: That’s Scottish poet, Valerie Gillies.

GILLIES: To hear the bagpipes coming and it’s exciting and the Haggis comes in on a plate and it’s put on the table.

ZALL: At that point, someone recites The Address to a Haggis, the Robert Burns poem that put Haggis in the spotlight in the first place.  Here’s Valerie Gillies practicing the address for a Burns Supper tonight.

GILLIES: Fear for your honest – - face.  Great chieftain ‘o the pudding race.  A – - pack your place, paunch, tripe or – - .

ZALL: In case you don’t understand Scots, Gillies was praising the honest happy face of the great chieftain of the sausage clan, adding that Haggis is superior to stomach, tripe or intestines.  But Haggis isn’t only eaten on Burns night, it’s pretty popular in Scotland all year round.  You can get it deep fried in batter at the fish and chip shop or you can buy a vegetarian version.  It’s pretty good, by the way.  And it’s not just the Burns poem that’s made it into popular culture.  There are other Haggis related events as well.

JAMES MCSWEEN:  Haggis eating competitions; who can eat the most Haggis in a pre-determined amount of time.  Haggis hurling competitions; who can throw a Haggis the furthest.  You stand on top of a whisky barrel and you thrown it without falling off the barrel.

ZALL: That’s James McSween, Managing Director of McSween of Edinburgh, one of Scotland’s best known Haggis makers.  But he says that even in Scotland, Haggis can suffer from an image problem.

MCSWEEN:  You cannot come running over and go can I try some, can I try some and then we go yeah, of course.  And then the parents go, Jimmy, you wouldn’t like it, trust me son, you wouldn’t like it.

ZALL: And he says that too many people that visit Scotland have the same preconception.

MCSWEEN:  They go, oh I’ve just come back from Scotland.  Ah, great holiday, did you try the Haggis?  No way, Haggis is horrible.  Have you ever tried Haggis?  No.  Well how’d you know?  Well I heard it was horrible.

ZALL: However good it may taste, a recipe that includes chopped lungs and heart boiled in a sheep stomach can be a hard sell.

WILLY:  Get your Haggis, right here.  Chopped heart and lungs boiled in a real sheep’s stomach.  Taste’s as good as it sounds.

ZALL: That’s the Simpson’s Scottish groundskeeper, Willy.  And lines like this one, from Mike Meyer’s 1993 film, So I Married an Axe Murderer, don’t help either.

FEMALE VOICE 1: Do you actually like Haggis?

MALE VOICE 1: No, I think it’s repellent in every way.  In fact, I think most Scottish cuisine is based on a dare.

ZALL: But according to Haggis maker James McSween:

MCSWEEN:  Until you try it, you shouldn’t knock it.

ZALL: And if the U.S. ban on Haggis is lifted, you may soon be able to try it for yourself.  For The World, I’m Carol Zall.

Copyright ©2009 PRI’s THE WORLD. All rights reserved. No quotes from the materials contained herein may be used in any media without attribution to PRI’s THE WORLD. This transcript may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior written permission. For further information, please email The World’s Permissions Coordinator at theworld@pri.org.

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This text below is a phonetic transcript of a radio story broadcast by PRI’s THE WORLD. It has been created on deadline by a contractor for PRI. The transcript is included here to facilitate internet searches for audio content. Please report any transcribing errors to theworld@pri.org. This transcript may not be in its final form, and it may be updated. Please be aware that the authoritative record of material distributed by PRI’s THE WORLD is the program audio.

MARCO WERMAN:  The Vancouver Winter Games are less than three weeks away and Olympic organizers are facing some troubles.  First, there is the lack of snow in Vancouver for the snowboarders.  There is plenty of snow in Whistler where the downhill and cross-country ski events will be held.  But the mountain resort there is having other problems, money problems.  Creditors are threatening to put the resort up for sale during the Olympics.  The owners say that won’t disrupt the games, but as The World’s Jason Margolis reports, the resort isn’t the only business in Whistler that’s struggling right now.

JASON MARGOLIS:  The Whistler Resort was built in the 1960′s, a postcard European ski village for Canada nestled at the base of two mile-high mountains.  Shops, restaurants and bars lined the quaint pedestrian only thoroughfare.  On a weekend night the village seems to be hopping with young party-goers.  College girls in sleeveless dresses, their male counter-part is t-shirts braved the sub-freezing temperatures.  They’re waiting in long lines to get into bars and clubs like the Amsterdam Café and Pub.  But don’t let the line-up at the door fool you says bartender John Quinland.

JOHN QUINLAND:  Even last year with the economic downturn we were busier than this.  Our business dropped off last year, but it was busier than this.

MARGOLIS: Quinland says business at his bar is down about 60% compared to last year.  He says most of the businesses here are struggling.

QUINLAND: If the people aren’t here, the people aren’t here.  You can’t bring people in if they’re not going to come to town.

MARGOLIS: It’s tough to be a ski resort during an economic downturn.  It’s even tougher to attract skiers and snowboarders when you’re about to host the Winter Olympics.  You’re not just battling a slow economy; you’re battling history.

KEN MELAMED:  This year is lower than most because of this phenomenon studied and well-known, one we anticipated, called Olympic aversion.

MARGOLIS: That’s the Mayor of Whistler, Ken Melamed.

MELAMED:  Most of our skiing clientele knows that the games are coming and have a perception that it’s too crowded, too expensive.

STUART REMPEL:  Too crazy, too busy, too expensive, under construction.

MARGOLIS: That second voice is Stuart Rempel, the Senior Vice President of Marketing and Sales for the Whistler/Blackomb resort.  He says they have been working hard to counter those perceptions.

REMPEL: This is one of our brochures, our travel planner.  In 2010 the world’s best will come to Whistler and so can you basically.

MARGOLIS: Rempel lays out a map of the resorts two mountains.  He points to a corner to illustrate that only a fraction of the resort is off-limits for part of the season.

REMPEL: We have 38 lifts, one of which is impacted by the Games, and only during the month of February.  So you could come to Whistler and ski right during the middle of the Games and actually if you stayed in certain, the other 90% of the terrain, you would hardly notice that there was a Games going on given the size and the scope of our resort.

MARGOLIS: To give tourism an extra jolt in the weeks before the Olympics, Whistler slashed season lift passes by almost 30%.  Hotels are offering deals like stay two nights, get one free.  Still, despite these efforts, local businesses are preparing for a long, slow winter.

WENDY WACKO:  This is museum quality pottery.

MARGOLIS: Wendy Wacko owns Mountain Galleries.  Her shop is filled with rare and expensive stone carvings and ceramics.  Her shop has a prime location in the Fairmont Hotel.  But during the Olympics the usual high-spending Fairmont clientele will be replaced with referees and reporters.  Wacko is prepared for a lull in sales.

WACKO: I did my homework.  I know four years ago and four years before that the gallery scene in Turino and even Salt Lake City did not do well.  I’m prepared for it.  As a matter of fact if I have to debt finance this winter because our cash flow is not what it has been, I actually went to the bank and I’ve organized financing if I require it.

MARGOLIS: Other store owners like David Campbell, who owns Kier Fine Jewelry, are taking a different approach.  He’s renting out his store for February and March to Victoria Knox Swiss Army.  He’s taking a six week vacation in Australia.

DAVID CAMPBELL:  As a small business owner you don’t get that opportunity often.  It’s sort of once in a lifetime situation so we’re quite excited and looking forward to it.

MARGOLIS: A slow winter in Whistler is a blessing to others as well.  I met Luis Miguel del Coro Rojo coming off the mountain.  He’s been skiing Whistler for seven years.

LUIS MIGUE DEL CORO ROJO:  It’s a little bit quieter.  It’s a little bit quieter than normally.

MARGOLIS: Nice skiing for you?

LUIS MIGUE DEL CORO ROJO:  Yeah, excellent.  Always good to ski here.

MARGOLIS: For The World, I’m Jason Margolis, Whistler, Canada.

Copyright ©2009 PRI’s THE WORLD. All rights reserved. No quotes from the materials contained herein may be used in any media without attribution to PRI’s THE WORLD. This transcript may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, without prior written permission. For further information, please email The World’s Permissions Coordinator at theworld@pri.org.