Coffee shop in the Ukraine

What exactly does it mean to be Ukrainian? A thousand years ago, Ukraine was the heart of the Slavs’ first great civilization, one of the largest kingdoms in Europe. Since the 13th century, parts of Ukraine have been over-run and ruled by Mongols, Poles, Lithuanians, Hungarians, Austrians, Ottoman Turks, Russians, and Soviets. Ukraine finally achieved true independence in 1991. But Ukrainians are just starting to figure out what it means to be Ukrainian. The World’s Jason Margolis spent 10 days in Ukraine and reports on the quest for Ukrainian identity, exploring the nation’s music, politics, history, and humor.

Ukrainian humor
September 15th, 2008

Odessa Fish Market

The brand of humor that made Seinfeld such a hit is often described as New York Jewish humor. It’s a little off-the-wall, neurotic, and self-deprecating. Perhaps bitter and pessimistic. And very funny. The roots of modern Jewish humor come from Eastern Europe. More specifically, it’s said if you want to go to where funny was born, go to Odessa, the city on the Black Sea.

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Family roots
August 4th, 2008

Vladimirets, Ukraine

66 years ago this summer, the Nazis swept through the Ukrainian countryside. It’s estimated that they killed between 600,000 and 900,000 Ukrainian Jews during the Holocaust.The family of The World’s Jason Margolis is originally from Ukraine. He recently traveled to the place where his grandmother grew up.

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Vladimirets audio slideshow

Famous battle
August 19th, 2008

"Famous Battle"

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Economy draws Ukrainians home
July 28th, 2008

Shopping in downtown Kiev

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, many Ukrainians left their country to find better jobs in the West. Now, some Ukrainians are reversing the pattern. They’re heading home because of new economic opportunities in Ukraine.

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Okean Elzy
July 15th, 2008

Ukraine’s most popular rocker is now serving in that country’s Parliament.

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Chernobyl tourism
July 24th, 2008

Jason Margolis in front nuclear reactor in Chernobyl

Chernobyl is the site of the world’s worst nuclear accident. When a reactor exploded there in 1986, it sent plumes of radioactive material across Europe. Chernobyl’s still largely off-limits. But the Ukrainian disaster zone has been turning into something of a tourist destination. Jason Margolis took the tour.

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Chernobyl audio slideshow

Viktor Yushchenko
June 26, 2008

Four years ago, something terrible happened to Viktor Yushchenko while he was running for president of Ukraine. His face became horribly disfigured. Doctors determined he was poisoned by dioxin. At lot’s happened since then. Ukraine went through the ‘Orange Revolution’ and Yushchenko went on to become president. These days he face looks less damaged. Now it’s his political health that’s suffering. Jason Margolis has an update on the Ukrainian leader’s physical — and political — health. Listen:

BBC video: the strange tale of Viktor Yushchenko’s face
Ukraine’s Viktor Yushchenko

Thoughts on Ukraine
July 14th, 2008

Jason found beautiful architecture, clean streets, and a certain bluntness in Ukraine. Read his journal

In Ukraine, the question asked isn’t a friendly, “May I help you?” Rather, the question best offered is a pleading, “Will you please help me?”

Margolis ponders the pastry that might've been

This is my first trip to the former Soviet Union. I’d been told to expect a different, shall we say, “style” of customer service. But I still wasn’t fully prepared. For 10 days in Ukraine, I get the same blasé attitude everywhere I go. Apathetic waiters, can’t-be-bothered concierge workers, tour guides who are annoyed when I ask questions.

People do their jobs. Period. Nothing more. The pastry chef’s assignment is to bake the pastry, not to sell it.

Some people say it’s a remnant of Soviet mentality. Others blame the Orthodox Church. Some blame Ukraine’s harsh history. Others cite the winters. Whatever the cause, I find the Ukrainians to be unfriendly, impolite, and frankly, a little lazy.

Ukraine was a Soviet republic from 1922-1991

But after a few days in Ukraine, I begin to change my tune. No one is offensive, rude, or pushy. I have not met a single loud or obnoxious Ukrainian, with the exception of a group of teenage boys who were celebrating a soccer win. (And even they were well behaved, by worldwide teenage-boy-celebrating-soccer-win standards.)

After a week, I actually begin to kind of enjoy the bluntness here. Nobody is trying to butter up to me or pretend to be my friend. You know where you stand in Ukraine. Think about it: Why would somebody be glad to help a stranger decide which pastry is best for them? It’s insane.

Downtown Odessa

And Ukraine is beautiful. And clean. I rarely see trash on the street. In 10 days I saw two pieces of graffiti, one of which was a Zoro moustache drawn on an Antonio Banderas advertisement, which I’m not even sure technically counts.

I share my reflections with a Ukrainian professor over a cup of coffee. He offers another theory: It’s possible I’m getting a cold shoulder because “all Ukrainians” think “all Americans” are imbeciles. I’m not surprised to hear this, but I am rather surprised he said it to me. (After all, by definition, if all Americans are imbeciles, he has just informed me that I am an imbecile.) When I ask why he holds 300 million people in such low regard, he answers with another question: Why do Americans always smile for photos? I don’t have a good answer for him.

In Ukraine people don’t smile for photos. Why would they? I have to admit, it is a little bizarre to suddenly burst into a wide grin. And, at the end of the day, Ukrainians would rather complain than smile.

Fish vendor in Odessa

As a reporter, I’m used to people complaining to me – my job is to listen to complaints. But Ukrainians have turned grumbling into high art. Generally when I ask an interviewee a question, they give me an answer. That’s how the game works. In Ukraine, I have appointments with people who have prepared a list of unrelated grievances in advance of our meeting.

I wanted to speak with a scientist about solar panels; I heard a lot about his wife’s pension. I needed to chat about Ukrainian history with another man; he talked at great length about his aching knee. I spoke with one man whose wife actually interrupted our interview and said to my translator, “I NEED to complain.” I didn’t know what to do, so I tilted my microphone in her direction. She was unhappy with her husband.

All this being said, I do not find Ukrainians to be unpleasant people; I rather like them. And I’m starting to get a kick out of the game.

Towards the end of my trip, I stop at a street vendor for some ice cream. The woman selling ice cream is on her cell phone, doing her best to ignore me. My translator shrugs his shoulders and explains it to me this way: She has all the ice cream, she’s in absolute control. How can one argue with this logic?

One final unrelated observation from Ukraine: If there’s ever a worldwide shortage of mayonnaise or sour cream, we know who is to blame.

Typical helping of sour cream